A small group of around 500 people - but given an inordinate amount
of coverage by the media and tourism promotion - the Paduang have adjusted
themselves to living in a kind of human zoo, one of Mae Hong Son Province's
top tourist attractions.
Although only a very small percentage ever wore the 'famous' neck-rings,
now almost all 5 year-old girls are fitted with them. These rings push
down on the body, rather than lifting up the head, to give the appearance
of a swan-like neck which is deemed to be very beautiful.
They call themselves the Gay Gong Du, meaning people who live on top
of a hill. Some speak a Karen dialect, but they may be a branch of the
Tai Yai. They have legends which associate them with the Khmer, but their
language is considered Tibeto-Burman. Perhaps 30,000 or more live in Kayah
state of Burma, mostly west of the Salaween River.
Those trade in livestock, rice, cotton, fruit and vegetables, weavings
and basketry and few still have the long necks. On either side of the border,
the Paduang have been nomadic hunters and farmers.
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The women's neck rings make for a whispery voice and those who wear
them cannot shout. They also wear rings on the arms and legs, often 20
or 25 kilos of weight altogether! Yet they still carry loads, like jars
of water atop their heads, and gather firewood. They are hardly fastidious,
owning little, and don't bathe often as they must polish their rings each
time.
The Paduang are friendly and love visitors (especially well-mannered
ones), but they also love quiet. They are usually Buddhist, but believe
in their animistic shamans too. Their small houses, built on short poles
with a small porch in front, have a hearth in the middle of the floor.
Nowadays the Paduang organise their lives to please tourists, their only
source of cash income.
Next month: The Palong
JUST LIKE THE REAL THING?
Click for larger photograph
Almost! This metal bas relief of a Mitsubishi A6M2 Zero-Sen actually
represents an aircraft of the 64th Sentai, wich was stationed here at Chiangmai.
Framed in dark Thai timber, each piece is numbered and only 1000 pieces
will ever be produced. Made by Thai craftsmen with care.
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