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Gourmet Visits ARCOBALENO

In Italian the word ‘Arcobaleno' translates as coloured arc, but most Italians see it for what it really is - a rainbow. Moreover, it's also the name of one of Chiang Mai's newest Italian restaurants, and eager to explore the colourful culinary treasures on offer, I went along last Saturday lunchtime to try it out.

Crossing the Nakorn Ping Bridge onto Kaewnawarat Rd and spotting the bright yellow ‘Arcobaleno' sign I took the first right turn, finding it easily. I was also surprised by the spacious frontage, so no problems with parking.

Set beneath a large old wooden house, fresh white cloths adorned the tables, while the cool air, lemon yellow walls and romantic accordion music relaxed me nicely as I joined friends at the rear of the dining room. A friendly young woman came over, bringing the menus. It was Elena, the restaurant owner, who I later found out is also the daughter of well-known Italian chef Renato Magni, the late-owner of Babylon restaurant on the Huaygaeow Road.

"So what do you recommend?" I asked her.

"All my favourites," Elena nicely countered with a laugh.

Well, this seemed as good a way to start as any. Most of the 100 or so dishes on the menu are reasonably-priced, between 150-190 baht, and I was already imagining a return visit, even if just for morning coffee.

The anti-pasta dish arrived, a richly-blended Crab Meat Au Gratin, swiftly followed by Fettuccini Alfredo. This was the table's immediate favourite it has to be said. The Parma ham and fresh cream sauce accompanying Arcobaleno's homemade pasta made a delicious ensemble.

"Why is the fettuccini black?" I enquired.

"We make it to the traditional Italian recipe using fresh squid ink. This surprises people sometimes, and if you eat enough, it can even blacken your teeth a little," Elena said laughing again.

Great party trick I thought, but perhaps not on a first date?

The Lamb Cacciatore, one of the ‘Ultra Specials' came next. Tender hunks of lamb in a warm luxuriant gravy made for a real wintery taste of home, definitely justifying its place as a ‘special' dish. We finished up with a very scrumptious tiramisu, leaving the baby clams in garlic, traditional pizzas and gelato until next time. There's also a very good selection of vegetarian dishes, including the popular Eggplant Parmigiana.

Elena's father trained local Thai chefs to cook authentic Italian food for more than 20 years. Well, they're certainly cooking up little pots of gold for the customers at Arcobaleno just now, and in my opinion will remain doing so as this restaurant progressively adds colour to the eating scene here in Chiang Mai.