Chiang Mai (Northern Thailand) Tourist Guide


	S.P. Publishing Group Co., Ltd. 11/1 Soi 3 Bamrungburi Rd., T. Prasingh, A. Muang., Chiang Mai 50200 Tel. 053 - 814 455-6 Fax. 053 - 814 457 E-mail: guidelin@loxinfo.co.th

OASIS IN THE CLOUDS
Rejuvenation in a Secret Valley

by Charlotte Davies

Most visitors to Chiang Mai believe that booking themselves onto one of the proliferation of treks on offer will satisfy their curiosity of rural northern Thailand. The more adventurous may try to find the hidden secrets of the hills by ‘doing it themselves’. Those who are lucky may chance upon a place of magic, a sacred spot.

One such place can be found just 75 km north east of Chiang Mai. It may not be an obvious stopping off point on the road to Chiang Rai, but cross the river and you will find that Mae Tho River Valley holds much more than first impressions reveal. The setting is the mountains of Khunchae National Park. A newly paved mountain pass winds its way majestically through hill tribe villages and lush valleys before sweeping along the bottom edge of the Trekker Estate. The property overlooks large fields containing fruit trees and ferns, with hills framing the horizon in every direction.

Trekker Lodge was created in the late 1980’s by a local trekking guide, and has undergone continued expansion ever since. It sports a substantial restaurant serving tasty Thai and Western dishes, five bungalow huts (each built in the style of a different hill tribe), a snooker room, large gardens, and raised outside seating areas. Each bungalow has an en-suite bathroom with shower and a fireplace. All of the buildings are made from wood, and are very much in keeping with the local landscape.

The resort is owned and managed by Coo Saelee, who is Hmong and originally from Lampang District. It is a family-run business with Coo’s brother and his wife also employed at the Lodge. Trekker Lodge is supported by a diverse group of ‘friends’, mainly from the UK, who are passionate about the place and aim to work positively and creatively with the diverse local communities and environments.

Aside from being the perfect weekend getaway and base for exploring the local area, Trekker Lodge is also evolving as a venue for a variety of holistic holiday courses for intimate groups. The valley is already a magnet for spiritual and health pursuits. The nearby Lahu village, Huay Nam Rin, is host to traditional Thai massage and vipassana meditation courses and retreats. German teacher, Asokananda, author of the well known ‘Art of Traditional Thai massage’, initiated these courses. The centre has expanded over the years to include other teachers and disciplines, with the result that courses are being run almost continuously throughout the dry season. Huay Nam Rin is one of four Lahu settlements in the valley and hosts a variety of fascinating ceremonies throughout the year. These include marital tea ceremonies, spiritual rites following a pig sacrifice, and the elaborate New Year’s celebrations. This year’s festivities took place on the February new moon and involved much feasting and dancing.

On the first night of the three-day party the inhabitants congregated in the village dance circle and danced through until dawn. On the second day they danced inside the village’s wealthiest households. These households have an ‘open door’ policy, serving food and drink to all visitors. On the third day, the largest congregation took place, with other Lahu villagers arriving in truckloads from far and wide to participate. The dancing is quite formal in style but very colourful. The women stand in lines of three or four, arms intertwined and parade slowly and gracefully around a centrepiece. The men play the more active role, circumnavigating the group in single file to an eclectic musical accompaniment.

When not involved in rituals, these Lahu villagers produce silver jewellery, bags, knives, clothes and coffee for sale, largely to tourists. Many of them also work for the Royal Agricultural Project, a government initiative that encourages the hill tribe people to grow vegetables, fruits, flowers and ferns. The Project has a centre in the valley and, in conjunction with the Tourism Authority of Thailand, recently paved the road almost all nine kilometres from Highway 118 to Trekker Lodge and the Thai village of Ban Muang Noi.

Aside from its cultural assets, the valley also has several local beauty spots including two waterfalls – Huay Muang and Muang Noi - and a small cave (Doi), and of course, plenty of jungle and natural habitat to wander through or just admire. There are five qualified trekking guides in the area and a one - or two-night trip into the surrounding jungle can be a life-affirming experience – sleeping under the stars in a shelter made of banana leaves and bamboo.

It may be slightly off the beaten track but the valley holds something for everyone. Many come to relax and rejuvenate, absorbing the fresh air, and tranquillity, and meeting friendly people. Most leave with a sense of renewed appreciation for themselves and the world around them.